Smooth Sleeve Caps

I grew up in the 80s and painfully remember those awful shoulders! It is perhaps for this reason that I so prize a smooth and understated shoulder. Here's how I like my shoulders:

Poor construction of this aspect of a garment can ruin the whole; I know I say this about almost every aspect of construction but stick with me. A poorly set shoulder isn't just an eyesore in itself, it can also:

1. Distort the neckline;
2. Ruin the alignment and hang of the sleeve itself;
3. Affect the ease and fit across the back;
4. Create tension and puckers which affect the bust and underarm darts.

I know it's hard to get excited about shoulders; they're just there aren't they. True, beautifully set shoulders are just there; unremarkable by their perfection. However trust me; if they're wrong you'll soon notice them.
The first step to perfection is setting your sleeve cap so here are some tips for smooth sleeve caps:

1. Run three lines of easestitching between the cap matchpoints. Don't run right across the cap; run from the centre top to the front, repeat to back matchpoint. This is because there will always be more ease to distribute on the back; if you try to distribute the ease equally across the entire cap you will pull the sleeve cap out of alignment.
2. Match pin to armscye, pull up and tie off fullness at front match point, repeat for back match point.
3. Unpin, place on tailor's ham to shrink out the ease using steam. Place your iron on 'steam' allow the iron to hover or rest over the seam line. Do not press down hard or steam too far into the cap itself. This always takes longer than you think and feels as if nothing's happening but those fibres will be gradually shrinking out the ease.

If you follow the above tips your cap line should match the top of your armscye perfectly, removing the need distribute ease when sewing and ensuring dimple free, smooth shoulders.
Look out for forthcoming posts on completing, attaching and lining sleeves.

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Winners: Pattern and Book Giveaways

The start of a new month and time to reveal the winners of our 'Pattern and BookGiveaways'.

Pattern winner: Gina

Vintage Book Winner: Vicky Tring

Congratulations ladies, please email me with your choice of pattern or book: gracedressmaking@gmail.com.

If you'd like the chance to be one of our winners next month here's how it all works. To say thank you for being part of Grace Dressmaking, each month two of our lovely readers will receive a free pattern. If you do any of the following you could win:

• follow us;
• Use one of the 'share' buttons (bottom of pages) or;
• comment on a post (bottom of pages).

The winners will be drawn and announced on the 1st week of every month. You can select any pattern from the current Vogue or Butterick pattern catalogues. Here are some of their summer patterns which would be perfect if you're thinking of joining The Summer Dress Sew-along 2014:

To be entered into the monthly draw for a CD containing a vintage sewing book all you need do is contribute to either our Flickr group or Sewing Chat Room, a winner will be drawn at random during the 1st week of each month and contacted to select which one of the titles below they would prefer. If you were thinking of drafting your own dress for this year's Summer Dress Sew-along then one of these vintage books would be invaluable.

In Practical Dress Design the wonderful Mabel Erwin demonstrates how to go from design to pattern:

Wishing you all a wonderfull Sunday; I'm off to line and set some sleeves but more of that next week...

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The Summer Dress Sew-along

Summer is on its way so summer dresses here we come! Yes, it's time for The Summer Dress Sew-along.

Never been part of a sew-along? Here's how it all works:

What does it involve?

Well, it's a chance for us to share our sewing projects, support and inspire each other. You can sew any summer dress that takes your fancy: retro, modern, evening, day, adult or children's dress. This is for all levels of experience and skill and would be a great way to get encouragement and advice if this is your first dress.

Why join a sew-along?

• You can offer and receive support from our lovely readers;
• Inspire others to take up the best hobby in the world;
• The chance to share your progress and finished projects in our chat room, Facebook page or Flickr group;
• Automatic entry into our pattern and book giveaways.

How do I join?

You can get involved using any of the following:

• Click the icon to join our Flickr group:

• Click the icon to join The Summer Dress Sew-along topic in our sewing chat room:

• Click the icon to 'Like' our Facebook page; this will enable you to follow us on Facebook and post your ideas, photos, comments or questions directly onto our Facebook page;

• If you have a blog or website you can display one of the above buttons with a link;
• Vote to pick the summer dress you'd like to see tutorials on by using the poll on the top right of this post.

When?

The sew-along starts today and finishes with a post showcasing everyones' hardwork on Friday the 22nd of August. I will need all images uploaded to our Flickr group, sewing chat room or emailed by Friday the 15th of August so I can put them together for the showcase.

Let's get sewing for summer!

Clever Collars

I'm three quarters of the way through my latest project and have been working on the collar. Before my rather ordinary collar, here's some collar inspiration.

Collars are a really important design feature and the quality of their construction can make a significant difference to the look of the garment as a whole.

These exquisite vintage collar designs show how clever collars can be. Firstly they work alongside the other lines of the garment to create balance and therefore enhance the appearance of the silhouette. Moreover the collars lead the eye upwards and frame the face.

The collar on my current project is rather more humble but many of the construction principles remain the same. To ensure symmetry and a smooth line here are some tips:

1. Trim seam allowances, always leave uppermost the widest;
2. Clip corners;
3. Press corners and seams open over metal scissor handles and a tailor's ham;
4. Hold corner seams flat in position as you turn to the right side;
5. Only press the edges;
6. Press uppermost side first;
7. When attaching the collar start by basting at a front edge and stitch almost to the centre back, repeat the other side. By working this way the front edges will line up perfectly and any additional fullness can be eased across the back.

Next step: sleeves!

 

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Spring Bag Tutorial

I always seem to make at least one bag this time of year; it's a great way to use up all my fabric leftovers. For 2014 I've also made a pencil case which is probably the same size as an average bag! Consequently, I have made an even larger bag: I seem incapable of leaving the house without a small library / studio at my disposal.

 

I used a variation of the technique I covered in last year's bag tutorial

This time of year is also Lent so along with my church family I'll be participating in our Lent Challenge. If you'd like to hear the sermon series that goes along with the bible verses just click the badge below:

 

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Mad Men Challenge

How can I resist this Mad Men challenge from Julia Bobbin? If you're a fan you can click the button below and join in.

I thought I hated 60's fashion but Mad Men redeemed it. The question is not if I should do the challenge but do I opt for 50's or 60's? Another choice to be made is which character? Just before Christmas I finished a dress inspired by Joan and I have made a couple of dresses more influenced by Betty's style. I'm not a big fan of Megan so it has to be Peggy. Here's the progress so far:

Let's get sewing, I can't wait to see all the other outfits....

 

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From Pencil to Party!

I designed and finished this dress for a party last month but didn't have time to post it. The design was inspired by the TV series Mad Men: a dress Joan might wear to the Christmas party.

Here's the finished dress...

 

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